Restaurants and bars

Cooking worth the trip on its own

One room for a long dinner, one for a fast one, and one that is open when nothing else is.

Lowcountry · $$$$

Tilbureno

Shrimp and grits done properly, whole flounder, and a benne wafer that arrives before you ask.

All day · $$

Under the oaks. Breakfast, a good sandwich at lunch, and small plates when the band starts.

Cocktails · $$$

Behind the old vault door. Low light, a short list and a bartender with opinions.

Rooftop · $$$

Four floors up, facing the river, with the container ships going out after dark.

Bakery & coffee · $

Biscuits, pralines and a cold brew that is far stronger than it looks.

Practical

Every kitchen keeps an allergen matrix at the pass and every menu is available in large print. Tell whoever seats you and they will tell the kitchen.

Welcome everywhere except the gaming floor and the bars after 8 PM. There is a proper children's menu rather than three fried things.

Full vegetarian and vegan options at every venue, not a single substitution, and gluten-free bread made rather than bought in.

There is no dress code anywhere. We ask for smart dress in one room late in the evening and we ask it kindly.